Cosmeceuticals - Kosmeceutika

Changes of the system related to the process of aging which concerns also the skin, are inescapable. Worldwide indexes constantly show that an attractive appearance is perpetually desired. Nowadays, this trend does not only concern women but also men who have accepted this social philosophy. (35 years ago, 75% Italian men showed an interest in this but in England as well as in our country, it was only 14% of men.) It is not only the need for self-satisfaction and enhanced self-confidence in the society but sometimes it is the employer’s demand which evokes the interest in good appearance. Most of the speakers of different organizations and organs are people of youthful appearance, most frequently attractive women. It is therefore reasonable that the interest in appearance can be expressed economically. Last year, 12,5 milliard dollars were spent on esthetic treatments, including interventions of plastic and cosmetic surgery. This interest has brought a considerable pressure on specialists who are concerned with the issue of changes related to the process of aging and the function of particular apparatus.

Dermatologists, biochemists and other specialists are able to characterize the existing changes that influence the state and appearance of the skin. They have already been mentioned here. These findings have of course led to some efforts to change this situation or factors which could influence it. Social demand is certainly always the most powerful stimuli, even for science. The problem of cosmetics has become interesting even in academic workplace; research has moved from big manufacturers and isolated interest of some specialists to very big academic workplace by universities or separate university departments, often independent. It certainly has connection with the progress of science and technological capabilities. A new scientific discipline has come into being – cosmetology – which has made a huge step forward, evidently associated with the pressure of social demand. It is well common that the cooperation is developed within international level. Such interest of specialists has surely begun to change the look at the possibilities of cosmetology..

About 50 years ago, the specialists sought to analyze the cutaneous grease in order to imitate its function. It proved to be a progressive thinking as it was supposed that the cutaneous grease could be one of the ways of liquidation – excretion of the substances from the body. Evolution in the science generally allowed completely different ways of looking at the changes caused by aging and other factors. The fundamental finding was that it is possible to enter the process of changing and to find the means to influence such changes (e.g. aging), of course preferably in a positive way. Nevertheless, this progress brought the cosmetics to the edge of their possibilities, in terms of definition. The limitation according to this definition is even more striking in the USA than in Europe. For this reason, it was the US dermatologists who gave impetus to move the boundary of cosmetology from its decorative and caring function to maintaining the good state and improvement of the appearance. Accordingly, the term COSMECEUTICAL has come into being. Even though this term is not officially accepted anywhere in the world, it is considered to be the highest category of cosmetics, even by the most recognized specialists. The term “cosmeceutical” is commonly used in all expert and scientific journals and is regarded as exact, comprehensible and covering such products and ingredients which represent the actual top of contemporary cosmetic possibilities. Especially due to its “inofficiality”, it is needed to interpret and suggest this term and its scientific essence

RNDr. SoběslavFiker, Csc.